I travelled to the perfectly picturesque medieval World Heritage town of Saint Emilion in France’s Bordeaux region to visit a friend who was there for the wine harvest (les vendanges). In addition to consuming my fair share of croissants, rillettes, and wine, I indulged my sweet tooth in plenty of bakeries, where I discovered two regional specialties: the Bordelais canelé and the St Emilion macaron. I tasted my first legendary canelé in my friend’s kitchen. Its evenly baked dark mahogany crust that is slightly carmelized at the ridges gave way to a soft yet firm chewy center with dense air bubbles. It was specific and satisfying, and though not overpowering, left one wanting more. Not too sweet, they are the perfect treat at breakfast, lunch, dinner, and in between. I learned that canelés are made from something similar to a crepe batter (composed of egg, butter, milk, rum, and vanilla extract) poured into copper molds (sometimes lined with beeswax) in the shape of small ridged cylinders. They are baked at an extremely high temperature, which make them difficult, though not impossible, to recreate at home. Thanks to further research, I saw that frozen canelés are available at the American supermarket Trader Joes. Though certainly not a substitute to the real thing in Bordeaux, they could be a viable alternative worth trying for the curious. Meanwhile, I look forward to biting into an original Bordelais one again.
Another happy discovery was the St Emilion macaro(o)n. This is not the same pretty Parisian macaron that comes from Laduree or Pierre Herme and makes one swoon. In St Emilion, the macaron is a more rustic pleasure, a flat cookie with an intense almond flavor (very similar to the one I tried in the Basque seaside town St Jean de Luz). St Emilion’s macarons stem from an original recipe created by local nuns in the 17th century. The shop run by Mme. Nadia Fermigier (formerly by Mme Blanchez) claims to hold the original secret recipe passed onto the Widow Goudichaud after the French Revolution. I have to say that Nadia’s macarons were my favorite of the three St Emilion bakeries I visited. Nadia’s shop also stocks lovely homemade jams (I bought the superb apricot one). So when in St Emilion, do not forget to try this special treat served on pretty white and blue paper, with a matching box. If possible, please bring some back for me (they can be refrigerated for up to two weeks)!
[Bakery Fermigier: 9 rue Guadet, SAINT-EMILION]
Zamezi 