I just returned from Istanbul, where I drove, or was actually driven, from Croatia by my (boy)friend. With the help of an Istanbul eating bible, some luck, and an enthusiastic patience for seeking out special places to eat in the heat – in addition to having a wingman at hand who can read bad maps – I ate so well that I finally felt compelled to start this blog. (In fact, the book I mention is so good that most of my Istanbul posts result from visiting places featured in it. It is a worthwhile investment for anybody eating in Istanbul). My first post will be about one of my favorite things: the Turkish delight otherwise known as kaymak.
Kaymak is a kind of Turkish clotted cream crossed with ricotta cheese. It is made by skimming the top layer of boiled buffalo milk. (I thought I was familiar with it, thanks to days spent in Hercegovina, where food culture owes debt to the Ottoman Empire but was gleefully surprised when I tried the original Turkish version served with bread and honey). It is like a cloud of light, white, heavenly goodness that there is never enough of. It is perfect for breakfast, and welcome as a snack or a sweet lunch. It is also an excellent value at a mere four lira.
There are a few places in Istanbul whose renown is based on their devotion to serving only the freshest kaymak. I was only able to visit Özsüt, just a few meters walk from the Karaköy tram station. With its plastic chairs and basic décor barely distinguishing it from the surrounding kebab shops on the block, one wouldn’t suspect that this four generation family business has been serving fresh kaymak since 1915. Today, a man with alert and friendly eyes serves kaymak harvested from their own herd of 50 water buffaloes (whose photos grace the walls) 35 km away from Istanbul without great ceremony.
Surrounded by street noise and banter from men sitting across the alleyway, one can fully indulge in the goodness that is kaymak, and wash it down with a cup of Turkish tea. The white stuff was so good I ordered another portion, and would have ordered a third if I didn’t try to pace my tastebuds for lunch.
Another time, we trekked to Besiktas to try Pando’s—which, established in 1895 is even older—but it was closed. According to friends, the 84 year-old eccentric owner adds to the kaymak experience. I hope Pando stays around until my next visit. Even more so, I hope you are able to try kaymak in Istanbul someday soon!
Karaköy Özsüt: Yemişçi Hasan Sk. No: 9/11, Karaköy
Zamezi 