Istanbul Revisted

So far, I have spent a total of twenty-eight days in Istanbul. On my second visit to the city in December (where I very much enjoyed the mild and sometimes rainy weather) I discovered dishes that were new for me and traditional for Turkey. I also revisited certain lokals and dishes. Here, I outline the biteable goodness I found:

Manti Mi Se

I finally tried manti, a tiny Turkish type of tortellini. It is a humble culinary gem. Stuffed with your choice of meat, spinach, or cheese, and topped with a yogurt chili sauce, they are a lighter, but no less satisfying version of their Italian counterpart. Manti can be ordered fried or boiled (I preferred the latter). Apparently, the art in manti-making is for the manti to be as large as a fingernail, making it a learned trade for nimble fingers. I had a selection of particularly good manti at Bodrum Manti and Cafe in Arnavutkoy one sunny day (in addition to a couple of spontaneous places in Cihangir). The meal was followed by kemalpasa dessert which was sticky, sweet, and Ottomanesque. It reminded me of the Bosnian sweet hormasice.

Lahmacun Makes Me Swoon

Thanks to my trusty Istanbul resident guide, I discovered the flatbread/raised dough/minced meat/vegetable/parsley concoction called lahmacun. For only two TL, one can enjoy a fresh wrap where the dough is kneaded and wood burned just for you. For an extra kick, you can add fresh chili flakes that usually sit next to the salt and pepper on the table. Kardeşler in Cihangir serves lahmacun and other kebab dishes all night long, twenty-four hours a day, and is almost always bustling, and reliably good. Perched at the corner of the Cihangir and Cukurcuma border, it is a good spot to sit, enjoy a tea or a light meal, and watch the people pass. The place is a hidden gem that I would like to review in greater detail during my next Istanbul trip. Until then, don’t hesitate to take a seat if you are in the neighborhood. [They also serve Turkish and sage tea].

Another good lahmacun places is Yoremiz Pide, where the dough is doughier, slightly less flatbread-y but not pide-y. Just up the street from Tophane tram station (near Istanbul Modern if you want to be aware your non-museum café dining options) this tucked away place is essentially a one-room bakery with a wood-burning oven, newspaper covered floor, and three very talented men impressively working the dough. You take your lahmacun creation to go. What I liked about Yoremiz, in addition to the hands-on scene, is their slightly more substantial dough consistency and the more generous parsley serving. A place I was unable to try this time, but is also reported to serve outstanding lahmacun (“made with love”) is Ismael Pide, near Yoremiz. So, next time you are in Istanbul, and need a snack during the day or night, lahmacun is a perfect choice, especially at these tried and tasted places.

Kaymak Again

During this same December trip, I finally made it to Pando’s Kaymak, which I mentioned in my first post ever. Reminiscent of a blue and white Greek taverna, the interior is charmingly no frills—equipped with four little tables and photos of two sandy colored water buffaloes on the walls. During our bal kaymak breakfast, Pando himself – with his wise wrinkles and wolly pullover – sat at in a chair near the window, listening to another Turkish patron chat away, as we gobbled up our our kaymak, honey, and tea. Pando’s kaymak is excellent, certainly in the same league as Ozsut’s, and if you are near Besiktas (perhaps for the untouristed bazaar) or on your way to Bebek or Arnuvutkoy (as we were that day), it is certainly worth a taste and a visit. Because one always feels peckish for (extremely good) kaymak.

Ciya Update

Lastly, I would also like to report that I was won over on my second trip to Ciya, where the food proved remarkable. Since its menu is constantly changing, the day one visits as well as the dishes available and ordered make all the difference. (According to the little Ciya restaurant booklet the waiter gifted us, one will never see the same dish twice). Luckily, you will see variations of different recipes. To my delight, the dishes were all hits this second time around. The candied pumpkin dessert provided a strong ending, sweetly supplemented by the complimentary oregano tea – herbs are very special to me.

Bodrum Manti: 1. Cadde 111, Arnavutköy, open 24 hours

Pando’s Kaymak: Mumcu Bakkal Sokak, 5., Besiktas, not open Sundays

Kardeşler: Kemerburgaz, near Defterdar Yokuşu street, Cihangir, open 24 hours

Yoremiz Pide: Lüleci Hendek Cd. No. 14, Tophane

Ismael Pide: Siraselviler Cad. Hocazade Sok. 7, Beyoglu